"a fish, a barrel, and a smoking gun" |
Fashions of the Times
We began to notice a telltale drape in media coverage earlier this summer, when we thought we recognized Richard Jewell from a Calvin Klein ad. While reporters on the international beat have taken their cue from Michiko Kakutani, and now debate the relative nihilism of terrorist groups past and present ("even terrorists aren't motivated by ideology"), home-grown hacks look to be lifting patterns of speech from the fashion pages. Eisenhower jackets were spotted on Seventh Avenue recently, and the charges brought against eight men and one woman in Seattle are said to read "like Ozzie and Harriet go to terrorism school." "Increasingly, officials say, the face of domestic terrorism is a bomber next door," went the lead, a McCarthyesque echo appropriate, perhaps, to a season in which military coats are the front-line defense to autumn's encroaching chill and "realism" coats fashion's more militaristic urges. Or have our metaphors gotten away from us (again), and in our attempt at media reconnaissance have we wandered, not into a minefield, but simply a cowpatch?
We'll admit it: we could be wrong, and fashion might be a victimless crime. New York Times Magazine style editor Holly Brubach, putting a Schwarzkopfian spin on things, asserts that it's "real women" who have their fingers on the trigger of style's loaded message: "We like clothes, we recognize their powers of enhancement, and we want to deploy them in our lives." While the Times shot "real women" for last Sunday's Magazine, and though many seem overpowered - even assaulted - by plaid, none appear injured. Still, it's difficult not to suspect that the experience will leave emotional scars. Plucked from the streets of New York, if not completely at random, then certainly by chance, these women were dressed up, posed, and then abandoned; fingered and then left behind, like so many hospitality girls at a foreign port. Confusion over who wields the sharp end of style's pointed
shtick encourages blurring the fall line, and leaves us searching the runways for clues about the latest disasters, sartorial and stratospheric alike. After all, the idea that "it could happen to anyone" is potent fuel, and is used to launch fantasies both paranoid and fabulous. Walking across town, minding one's own business, you could be destined for a brush with fame or a brush with death. Terrorism's appeal as campaign tactic stems from a marriage of anonymity and chance - we don't know who did it, or where it will happen next. Fashion is ultimately more predictable, of course, but the move of "real people" into the limelight, whether by dint of Calvin Klein or the turns the catwalk of media attention into a public dressing room. And under those harsh lights, everyone starts to look bad. How can we tell? We have a peephole. It's called the Magellan Search Voyeur, and on its own, it combines the ham-fisted surveillance style of the ATF with the reflexive tackiness of DKNY's subway ads. While the loose phrases can erupt into a kind of primitive tone poem ("cliffs notes/magna/dog tags/dirt bike" reads one), there's little here that would surprise anyone. The keyword searches of the net's most clueless customers are laid bare here, and, for the most part, they reveal a collective consciousness obsessed more with nookie than nitro. Still, if the feds are to be believed, it's net searches that gave the Seattle Ozzies and Harriet their rebellious recipes. Magellan hardly needs to remind us that these searches are the product of "users like you." Putting together an outfit is apparently no more difficult than assembling a pipe bomb - "I don't want to call it a fad, but it almost seems like that's what is going on with these bombers," says one ATF supervisor. Will Ms. Brubach be called as an expert witness? courtesy of Duchess of Churl
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